About Cladco Standing Seam

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The best way to choose a colour for your standing seam sheets is by ordering a sample pack.
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Standing Seam With Ribs

Standing Seam Without Ribs

GreenCoat® Pural BT Coating
Cladco standing seam roofing sheets feature a GreenCoat® Pural BT finish. This coating, made with renewable Swedish rapeseed oil, helps reduce environmental impact while delivering exceptional durability. In normal conditions, you can expect a lifespan of up to 40 years, making standing seam a reliable, long-lasting choice.
Standing seam roof sheets are available in a choice of colours to suit a range of architectural styles: Nordic night black, silver fir green, slate grey and tile red. All colours come with matching flashings to ensure a seamless, professional finish for your project.
Using GreenCoat® Pural BT coated steel means your installation will be resistant to scratching, corrosion, weather damage and UV exposure, helping prevent colour fade over time. The A1 fire rating (BS EN 13501) also provides excellent fire safety. Together, these features make standing seam an increasingly popular, durable and dependable solution for roofing or cladding in the UK.
Slate Grey
RR2H8 / SS0087
Tile Red
RR750 / SS0760
Silver Fir Green
RR5J3 / SS0975
Nordic Night Black
RR33 / SS0015
Installing Standing Seam Sheets (Cladding)
1. Fit the J-rail flashings.
Begin by measuring and cutting the J-rail flashings to fit along the eaves of the wall. Use a spirit level as a guide to ensure the J-rail aligns with the angle of the wall. Secure the J-rail by fixing ring nails through the 60mm flat section of the flashing, using five nails per length and ensuring the flashing sits flush. Before fixing, apply a bead of butyl tape or silicone sealant behind the J-rail to create a secure, watertight fit.
2. Install the drip tray flashing.
At the base of the wall, mark the position for the drip tray flashing. The placement will depend on the length of the standing seam sheets, so start with the longest side. Temporarily fix the flashing to mark and cut accurately, then trim any overhanging sections using straight-cut tin snips. For corners, create a diagonal overlap. Once cut to size, fix the drip tray into place with ring nails and seal using silicone or butyl tape.
3. Measure and prepare the first sheet.
Measure the width and length of your first standing seam sheet from the J-rail to the drip tray and mark this on the wall. Transfer these measurements to the sheet to indicate its length. If you are centralising the installation, adjust the first sheet’s width using a handheld circular saw for a precise fit. Mark the two measurements onto the sheet, draw a line between them to create the angle, and remove the first upstand. Where possible, mark and cut sheets on the back to avoid scratching the surface.
4. Position and fix the first sheet.
Ensure the first sheet is square and aligned correctly. Fix it with ring nails every three to four fixing holes, spaced approximately 200mm apart down the left-hand side. The outside edge with the seam removed can be nailed through the face, as the next seam will conceal these fixings.
5. Install the remaining sheets.
Slide the next sheet onto the J-rail and align it with the first sheet. Gently tap the base with a rubber mallet to nudge it into place, then secure the seam by tapping from top to bottom. Fix each sheet using the same pattern as before. Repeat this process across the entire wall.
6. Fit the final sheet.
Measure the area for the final sheet, mark this on the back, and cut the sheet to fit. Position the sheet and use a rubber mallet to secure it over the seam. Fix down the left edge with ring nails spaced 200mm apart, continuing the same fixing pattern.
7. Complete the corner detail.
Measure and cut Z-bars to fit vertically along the external corner. Position the first Z-bar 90mm from the outside edge. Place the corner flashing along both bars to mark their position on the adjoining wall. Apply two beads of silicone sealant and secure the Z-bars with ring nails every 200mm. Then measure and cut the corner flashing using a circular saw, slot it over the Z-bars, and clamp it using seaming pliers to complete the corner detail.
Installing Standing Seam Sheets (Roofing)
1. Prepare the eaves flashing.
Begin by measuring the eaves flashing so that it spans the full lower edge of the roof. If you are combining roof and wall cladding, include the 30mm width of the J-rail flashings in your measurement. For roofing only, pair the eaves flashing with sheets that have eaves lips. Measure the total width of your roof and ensure the first and last sheets are equal in visible width for a symmetrical finish.
2. Prepare the ridge for mono-pitch roofs.
If you are working on a mono-pitch roof, fix mono-ridge backer plates along the top edge using annular ring nails. For dual-pitch roofs, you can skip this step and move on.
3. Fixing the eaves.
Once measured, fix the eaves flashing in place using annular ring nails spaced every 200mm along the top edge of the flat section.
4. Install the verge backer plates.
Measure and cut the verge backer plates to fit the left and right sides of the roof. For apex roofs, cut the ends at an angle so they meet flush at the ridge. Tap the plates into position and fold the eaves up around them as required. Repeat this process for both sides. Starting at the base, fix through the verge backer plate using annular ring nails spaced every 200mm. Repeat this process for both sides.
5. Prepare the first sheet.
Measure the width for the first sheet and allow an additional 25mm for the verge upstand. After removing one standing seam, the sheet should measure no more than 445mm wide. Using hemming tools, such as the hand seaming folder in our standing seam roofing tool kit, fold a 25mm upstand along the top and outer edges of the sheet. These folds will support both the ridge and verge flashings.
6. Position and fix the first sheet.
Place the sheet so that the upstand sits flush against the verge backer plate. Tap the sheet snugly against the eaves flashing using a rubber mallet. Secure the sheet with annular ring nails in every third or fourth fixing hole down the left-hand side. Use an eaves closer tool to fold the base of the sheet over the eaves flashing, taking care not to flatten the ribs on ribbed sheets.
7. Continue installing the remaining sheets.
Work from left to right, connecting each new sheet to the previous one. Tap along the seam from top to bottom with a rubber mallet to ensure a tight fit. Secure each sheet with annular ring nails in every third or fourth fixing hole and tighten along the eaves flashing as you progress.
8. Fit the final sheet.
Measure the remaining width and add 25mm for the verge upstand. Fold upstands along the left and top edges using hemming tools. The final sheet should be no wider than 470mm. Align the edge neatly with the verge backer plate and straighten any imperfections with seaming pliers.
9. Install the verge flashings.
Cut away the strengthening piece from the notched ridge bar and prepare your Z-bars. Measure and cut the verge flashings so they sit over the 25mm upstand and backer plate. For apex roofs, mitre the top edges to create a flush join. Clamp both the top and bottom edges with seaming pliers to seal securely over the upstand and backer plate. Repeat this process on both sides.
10. Fit the Z-bars and apply sealant.
Lay the ridge in place and mark the outer edges to indicate where the Z-bars will sit. Position the notched Z-bars over the upstands and fix them with annular ring nails. Apply two continuous beads of sealant behind each Z-bar before securing them fully. Seal around the edges of the Z-bars to close any gaps.
11. Complete the ridge.
Finish by installing standing seam fillers beneath the ridge area to complete the roofing system.
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